The one question I’m asked over and over, by people that have read my book, is why don’t I insulate my molds and let my soap gel. Gelling works great for some people and if it works for you that’s great. I’ve just had problems with it getting too hot and cracking along the top and my use of the refrigerator solved the problem for me. Feel free to use whichever method works best for you. I’ve chosen to write in my book the method I use, but it’s not the only method. It IS unorthodox, but it works for me. ~ Heidi
Hi Marcie! Thanks for buying my book! =] To answer your question, I wouldn’t quadruple the recipes. The most I would ever do is double a recipe. I use a 2lb mold for most of the recipes so doubling should work for you. Also, please make sure you follow the recipes and measure by weight in grams. Grams are much more accurate than ounces. Accuracy is important with soap making. Have fun! And you’re welcome!
Are you sure that it isn’t an ash that forms on the surface? If your lye to oil ratio is correct, you shouldn’t have any reactive lye left in your finished bar. My bars will get a white ash but it’s cosmetic. It’s not lye. I spray with isopropyl alcohol to prevent the ash. It prevents it mostly but I may still get just a little.
I try to make my soaps with all natural ingredients. I use oils, distilled water, goat’s milk, coconut milk, tea, coffee, spices, fruit puree, vegetable puree, essential oils, etc.. Ingredients that can be found in a grocery store. The sodium hydroxide (lye) that I use as the catalyst changes the oils into soap. There is no lye left in the finished bar of soap! The one ingredient that would be considered artificial would be fragrance oil, but you can make wonderful bars of soap without using fragrance oil. I do some bars with and some without. The first bars of soap I ever made were made from just olive oil and chamomile tea with the tea leaves. They smelled great and were completely natural.